C Stand Model 1 - Galvanized pipe, top to bottom - Page 4
Insert the 3/4" x 36" nipple in the top of the central stem. Thread the drilled and tapped 3/4" x 1/2" bell coupling on top of that.
Fasten the 1/2" EMT set screw male adpater onto the 1/2" EMT Conduit. Thread the 1/2" x 1/4" bell coupling onto the 1/2" male adapter. Thread the 1/4" x 3" nipple into the top of the 1/2" x 1/4" bell coupling and drop this upper stem assembly into the lower stem assembly.
Thread the 5/16" x 3" eyebolt into the hole in the 3/4 x 1/2 bell adapter to use as a knob and tighten to lock the upper shaft. If you've got an old knob from another light stand, all the better.
Mount your strobe onto the 1/4" nipple that forms the
spigot at the top of the stand and you're done!
Here's a shot of the finished stand with an Alien Bees monolight. With 3' nipples top and bottom, the adjustment ends up being around 52" minimum to 84" maximum. It's nice and heavy (that's a good thing for stability) and from a distance, looks amazingly like a commercial c-stand.
If you decide not to use casters, you can omit the 3/4" caps and the casters and instead, put 3 'crutch tips' on the bottom of the 3/4 street 90's to prevent scratching the floor. To save even more cash, eliminate the 3/4 street 45's on the legs and put the crutch tips right on the lower nipples. You might have a tough time leveling the stand this way though and end up putting leveling feet on them. If you're going to do that you're probably just as well putting casters on.
If you don't like the 'art noveu plumbing supply house' look, get some 1 1/4" foam pipe insulation and wrap the leg assemblies. It gives the stand that 'rubber cushion so it doesn't scratch something' look.